The Hobbs Digest

Interview in El Diario Vasco

For those of you hispanohablantes out there, check out this interview of me by the lovely Begoña del Teso for Spanish newspaper El Diario Vasco. We spent a memorable afternoon eating, drinking, and chatting in San Sebastián, where I had the immense pleasure of visiting recently. Reports and photos to come soon!

Istanbul Food Diary: Dinner at Medi Şark Sofrası

Just off the always-crowded main drag in Beyoglu, Istiklal Caddesi, you can get your kebab on in the most satisfactory fashion. Be aware that the portions on offer at this wonderful restaurant are HUGE, so consider ordering for at least two fewer people than actually are in your party. Just order the mixed platter from the wonderful staff, and get ready to receive an enormous tray filled with, from top to bottom, bulgur (or rice--it depends on the kitchen's whim, from my two equally satisfying visits), grilled tomatoes, pickled and raw vegetables, stupendous chicken wings, grilled chicken, lamb kebabs, lahmaçun, and grilled peppers.

They don't serve alcohol, but ordering the gorgeously frothy, homemade ayran, yogurt mixed with water and salt (far, far beyond the sum of its parts), served in a copper cup with a ladle, is a must!

When the meze platter of deliciously crisp vegetables arrives as a prélude to the feast, this huge, steaming poof of bread covered with sesame and nigella (I think!) seeds will come for immediate demolition. Such simple, honest, delightful food!

When you have a table outside, Istanbul's ubiquitious kitties can't resist approaching. Would you be able to resist this face?

Istanbul Food Diary: Lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta

The appeal of Istanbul is endless--the omnipresent sense of history, the minaret-studded horizons, the friendly (and beautiful) people--but among the finest qualities of this truly awesome, ancient city, food stands out, as it should; everything I've tasted here has been wonderful.

Spending a morning taking in the splendors of the Blue Mosque, the Ayasofia, and the Topkapi Palace really works up an appetite. Bordering this tourist-heavy area is Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta, the original outpost of the nationwide Sultanahmet Köftecisi chain, dating from 1920--as evidenced by the Arabic script on the art adorning the walls--with a very limited menu that allows the kitchen to focus on its calling card: Izgara köfte (seasoned, grilled meatballs). They are very tasty indeed, tender and perfectly spiced, although I of course poured on the pul biber and hot sauce to raise the heat level. Best enjoyed with the excellent bread and a side salad with a foundation of white beans, followed with honeyed desserts and hot çay (tea) or Turkish coffee, this is a simple, solid meal to provide the energy to soldier ahead, until the next meal...

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta
12 Divan Yolu
Phone: +90 212 513 1438